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Llanberis (Llan-Beris) - From 'A Topographical Dictionary of Wales' (1849)
LLANBERIS (LLAN-BERIS), a parish, in the hundred of Isgorvai, union and county of Carnarvon, North Wales, 9½ miles (E. S. E.) from Carnarvon, on the road leading to Capel-Curig, Corwen, and Shrewsbury; containing 1024 inhabitants. This place derives its name from the dedication of its church to St. Peris, a British, or, according to some accounts, a Roman saint, who is said to have been a cardinal of Rome, and to have resided in this sequestered spot with Padarn, an anchorite, who had a cell, or small chapel, in a meadow between the site of Dôlbadarn Castle and that of the present Dôlbadarn Inn. Dr. Pughe, in his well-known Cambrian Biography, states that St. Peris was a native of Wales, and calls him the son of Helig ab Glanog; he also says that he was both a saint and a cardinal, and lived about the sixth century. Dôlbadarn Castle was anciently the principal defence of this part of Wales. It is supposed to be one of the oldest mural fortresses in the principality, and to have been originally founded by Padarn Beisrydd, son of Idwal, to defend the passage through the Snowdonian mountains. This castle appears also to have been used as a state prison; Owain Gôch, brother of Llewelyn the last native prince of Wales, who had conspired with his brother Davydd to dethrone this prince, was confined in the castle for more than twenty-three years. It is supposed to be the fortress anciently called the "castle of Bere," which was provided by Davydd, after the unfortunate death of his brother Llewelyn, with a strong garrison for its defence against the English forces, commanded by Edward I. in person; and which is described by historians as being situated in Snowdon in a morass, through which a single causeway formed the only access to it, and which could be approached only along narrow and rugged defiles. But so sunk in despair were the Welsh by the death of their late prince, that even this castle was surrendered to the king, after it had been for some time closely invested; the weak defence of its garrison being the last opposition made to the victorious Edward in his conquest of Wales.
The parish, which is of very great extent, is bounded on the north-west by Llandeiniolen, on the west by Llanrug, on the south by Bettws-Garmon, on the south-east by Bethgelart, and on the northeast by Llandegai. It is situated in the heart of a wildly romantic district, comprehending several of the loftiest mountains in the principality, and abounding with mineral treasures, and with scenery of the boldest character. Among the mountains of the district, and within the parish, are the Elidyrs, the Glyders, Moel Eilio, Carnedd Igyn, part of Llyder Vawr, and, towering above all, the gigantic Snowdon, of which one-half is in this parish. Moel Eilio is 2377 feet in height; Carnedd Igyn, so called from a carnedd of loose stones placed on its summit by a person named Igyn, rises to a height of 2975 feet above the level of the sea; and the highest summit of Snowdon has an elevation of 3571 feet above the same level. Llanberis village consists only of three or four houses, with a spacious and comfortable inn, called the Dôlbadarn Inn, two miles west of it, for the accommodation of the visiters who in the summer season resort to this place, in their excursions to Snowdon. The village is beautifully situated on the river Seiont, which flows into the lake called Llyn Peris, a little below the church, and, after traversing both this and a lower lake, falls into the Menai below the ancient Segontium, at the present town of Carnarvon. Close to the village runs the new and important line of road from Carnarvon, through the romantic pass and valley of Dyfryn Membyr, to join the great Irish road at Capel-Curig.
The narrow Vale of Llanberis, extending five miles in length, and bounded on each side by lofty mountains, whose summits are commonly enveloped in clouds, comprehends a rich variety of romantic scenery, and contains within its limits a striking combination of features unrivalled in grandeur and sublimity. Though obscured by the overshadowing mountains which form its limits on either side, it abounds with luxuriant meadows affording fine pasturage, and comprises a small portion of arable land, not exceeding eighty or one hundred acres, adapted to the cultivation of oats, which is the only grain raised in the parish. It is intersected by the new road above mentioned, and its surface is agreeably diversified by the two beautiful lakes of Peris and Padarn, of which the former, called the Upper, is a mile in length, and about a quarter of a mile broad, and, though by much the smaller of the two, is greatly superior in the beauty of its form and the scenery that immediately surrounds it. The latter, which is termed the Lower lake, in Welsh Llyn Isâv, is about two miles in length, and about half a mile broad, and is separated from the other by a narrow isthmus 200 yards in breadth. On the summit of a high rock rising from the isthmus, and overlooking Llyn Peris, are the remains of Dôlbadarn Castle, consisting of some portions of walls, and one solitary tower, and forming a prominent and interesting feature in the scenery of the vale. About a quarter of a mile south-east of the Dôlbadarn Inn, and not far from the public road, is the noble cataract called Ceunant Mawr, formed by an impetuous mountain torrent precipitated with violence over two vast masses of rock, and falling into two tremendous chasms beneath. Within the parish, besides Peris and Padarn, already noticed, are four other lakes, viz., Llyn y Cwn, Llyn Cwm Dwythwch, Llyn Dû yr Arddu, and Llyn Cwm Fynnon; these, however, are of much smaller size, and some of them are situated high up the sides of the mountains. In Fynnon Vrêch, a small pool, about a mile east of the village, in the hollow of Cwm Glâs, is found, as in Llyn y Cwn, a great variety of aquatic plants, among which are the lobelia dortmanna, subularia aquatica, isoetis-lacustris, and juncus-triglumis: the hieracium alpinum, rubus saxatilis, solidago cambrica, and other rare plants, also grow in this alpine region, which is a favourite resort of botanists. Llyn Cwm Dwythwch abounds with trout of very superior quality, resembling salmon both in colour and flavour.
Since the opening of the new line of road from Carnarvon to Capel-Curig, Llanberis has become the principal resort of parties visiting Snowdon, to which mountain the ascent is easier from this village than from any other place in the district, and may be accomplished on ponies almost to the summit. For this purpose, guides are in attendance during the summer season; and ponies may be obtained, accustomed to these arduous and precipitous roads, on which they travel with perfect ease and security. In addition to the inn of Dôlbadarn, a capacious house of entertainment, called the Royal Victoria, has been erected by Thomas Assheton Smith, Esq., the chief proprietor of the soil, in a more splendid style, for the accommodation of the increased number of visiters, whom the new line of road has induced to select this as the principal place whence to make excursions, and commence the ascent to Snowdon. The approach to the mountain from the pass of Llanberis is singularly striking. As the tourist draws near, its highest summits become gradually concealed by intervening heights, consisting of lofty and rugged masses of rock, which, like secondary mountains, rise from its base, forming a grand series of natural outworks and majestic barriers to defend its steep acclivities, and of precipitous ridges of sharp pointed rocks, opposing a succession of formidable ramparts to guard the ascent to its summit. By these the mountain is hid from the view of persons approaching it, till, on their arrival at Bwlch-yr-Eisteddva, it bursts at once upon the sight, in all the fulness of overwhelming grandeur. Just above this point is the Gorphwysva, or "resting-place," at the extremity of the pass, which is the highest ascent on the new line of road, and from it is seen the pass of Llanberis beneath, called Bwlch-y-Gwyddil. Upon the left is Crib Gôch, "the red ridge," or third summit of Snowdon, beyond which appears part of the second summit, called Crib-y-Distyll: on the same side, but lower down, is a succession of rocks of inferior height, forming the grand western buttress by which the mountain appears to be supported; and below these are seen the two lakes of Llanberis, and the tower of Dôlbadarn Castle occupying the rocky summit of the narrow isthmus that divides the lakes. On the right are the precipitous acclivities of Glyder Vawr, skirted in many places with vast ranges of columnar rocks of basaltic formation, thrown together in the greatest confusion, and some having a slight degree of curvature: one cluster of these basaltic columns is detached from the rest, and occupies an isolated part of the mountain, in which it maintains a perfectly upright position. The lower ground in this pass is thickly strewed with vast fragments of rock, of various forms and sizes, which add materially to the grandeur of the scene; some of them are sixty feet in length, and of proportionate bulk, and the great number of huge masses that lie scattered in all directions, and in the wildest irregularity and disorder, give a high degree of beauty to the prospect, by their forcible display of light and shade. From this point, no higher ground intervening between Snowdon and the Menai, the view in that direction is perfectly open, and the Isle of Anglesey becomes conspicuous in the horizon. At a small distance along this path, which winds under some very lofty and awfully impending rocks, the whole of Crib Gôch appears in view: its summit, apparently almost inaccessible, is covered with the festuca vivipara, a viviparous alpine grass, which bears clusters of seedlings on very slender stems, and which, waving in the wind, without any visible support, gives a singular appearance to the rocks, which seem to be in motion.
The highest summit of Snowdon is called Yr Wyddva, or "the conspicuous," and rises almost to a point, affording space only for a small inclosure of loose stones, where the traveller may take refreshment while resting from the toil of his arduous ascent, and within which a pole, consisting of four thick planks inserted in a mound of stone, was erected by order of government, in the year 1827. From this summit Snowdon appears to be supported by four distinct and immense piles of rocks, forming vast buttresses, with four tremendous chasms between them, in three of which are lakes to which various names have been given, from the apparent colour of their waters: of these the most conspicuous from this point is Fynnon Lâs, or "the green well." Beyond is a continued succession of chasms, the sides of which are nearly perpendicular, constituting one of the most magnificent amphitheatres in nature. On Glyder Vawr is a quarry producing hone-stones of a very superior quality; great quantities of hones are sent to London. The mountain is noted for rare plants, among which are the saxifraga nivalis, the bulbocodium of Ray, or the anthericum serotinum of later botanists, and the lichen islandicus. The view from the mountain is truly sublime, comprehending the most extensive range of mountain scenery perhaps to be found in the island. On the right of Cwm Idwal, where a young prince named Idwal, son of Owain Gwynedd, was murdered by Dunawt, son of Nevydd Hardd, to whom his father had entrusted him to be brought up according to the custom of the country, is a vast split rock, called Twll Dû, or "the devil's kitchen:" the fissure forms a frightful chasm, about 150 yards in length, 100 yards in depth, and only 6 in width; and opening perpendicularly to the mountain, the waters of the lake of Llyn y Cwm are seen rushing through it with impetuosity. Fossils and minerals of various descriptions are obtained in abundance in the mountainous tract. Among these the most valuable are the beautiful Snowdon crystals, transparent as the diamond; and on Glyder Vawr are found some of brilliant colours, like the ruby and the amethyst: they are a species of the marcasite. There are evident indications in the latter mountain of a large deposit of copper-ore.
These mountains scarcely produce any grain, but they afford good pasturage in some parts for cattle and sheep during the summer. Goats, of which large flocks were formerly kept upon them for the purposes of the dairy, and for the sake of their long hair, which was manufactured into wigs, are now seldom seen: foxes are found in considerable numbers, and in the time of Leland there were large herds of wild red deer. The royal forest of Snowdon, erected by Edward I., on his entire subjugation of the Welsh, was, in the reign of Elizabeth, under the superintendence of Dudley, Earl of Leicester, who was appointed chief ranger, and who endeavoured to extend its boundaries, which were very indefinitely marked, into the counties of Anglesey and Merioneth; in which he was prevented solely by the firmness and perseverance of Sir Richard Bulkeley. It was finally disafforested about the year 1624, in the latter part of the reign of James I., to the great satisfaction of the neighbouring farmers, whose crops suffered from the deer, and to the relief of the inhabitants of this part of the principality, who were grievously oppressed by the vexatious laws enacted for its government.
Partly in the parish of Llanberis, and partly in the parish of Llandeiniolen, are the extensive slatequarries of T. Assheton Smith, Esq., called the Dinorwig Quarry, employing about 2000 men: the boundary line of the two parishes runs nearly through the centre of the quarry. These now flourishing works were formerly conducted only on a very limited scale, but in 1824 they were much enlarged; within the last few years the operations have become greatly extended, and at the present time nearly 100,000 tons of slates are annually raised. In 1824 a tramroad was constructed by Mr. Smith, at an expense of £25,000, for conveying the produce of the quarries to Port-Dinorwig, on the Menai, in the parishes of Bangor and Llanvair-is-Gaer. This, however, has been superseded by a new railway constructed in 1843, also at the cost of Mr. Smith, who expended as much as £35,000 on the work; the line is about eight miles in length, and of four feet gauge. A locomotive engine is employed to draw the slates down to within about 800 yards of the port, where is an inclined plane of that length, along which they are let down by an endless chain above 1600 yards long. The railway runs by the side of, and nearly on a level with, the Llanberis lakes, for three miles: the old tramway has been wholly removed. There are nine different colours of slates raised at these quarries; they are kept distinct, and sold to suit different customers. Four mills are employed in sawing and planing slate slabs, of which many tons are wrought; one of the mills is driven by steam of thirty-horse power, and the others by water. Copper abounds in the parish, and two mines of that ore were formerly worked in it; the principal mine was situated on the southern margin of the Upper lake, near its higher extremity, and the other in Clogwyn Côch, or "the red rock," about half-way up Snowdon, at the upper extremity of the hollow called Waûn Cwm Brwynog, and near the small lake Dû yr Arddu. The former of these, commonly called Llyn Peris mine, was regularly worked for about a century, and the original vein of ore may be considered as exhausted: attached to it was a stamping-mill for pulverizing the fragments of rock in which the ore was imbedded, preparatory to its being separated by washing. The mine at Clogwyn Côch was comparatively of recent date, and was worked only for a few years. The ore of the mines is a sulphate, and is found in a matrix of quartz, imbedded in hard rocks of whinstone and hornstone schistus. Fairs are held in the parish on September 18th and 27th.
The living is a discharged rectory, rated in the king's books at £4. 18. 9., and endowed with £800 royal bounty; present net income, £182; patron, the Bishop of Bangor: the tithes have been commuted for a rent-charge of £60. The church, dedicated to St. Peris, and situated in a deeply sequestered glen, about a quarter of a mile above Llyn Peris, is a small, low, cruciform structure, principally in the later style of English architecture, with some portions of a much earlier date, probably several centuries earlier, which are parts of a previous edifice. The more modern portion is supposed to have been erected in the reign of Henry VI., and the whole forms a neat and venerable structure, in perfect harmony with the retirement of its situation, and the picturesque scenery by which it is surrounded. Two small chapels open into the chancel, one on each side, in each of which, and also in the chancel, is a good east window. Some of the timber work in the building is highly curious. The restoration of this church was commenced in 1848, under the superintendence of Henry Kennedy, Esq., architect; the plans comprising the insertion of larger windows of good design, the repair of the ancient roof, and the fittingup of the whole of the interior with appropriate benches. There are two places of worship for Calvinistic Methodists, and one for Independents, with three Sunday schools, one being held in each meeting-house. In the adjoining parish of Llandeiniolen, at Dinorwig, is a British school, established and supported by the quarrymen, for the benefit of the two parishes of Llandeiniolen and Llanberis. A farm called Tŷ Dû, bequeathed by Dean Goodman as part of the endowment of Christ's Hospital, at Ruthin, is situated in Llanberis; and a slate-quarry has been opened upon it, which promises a very considerable addition to the funds of that useful establishment.
Remains of camps and other defensive works are numerous in the mountainous region of Snowdon, and vestiges of several are to be seen within the limits of the parish. In Cwm Glâs is a cromlech. Near the church is the well of St. Peris (inclosed with a wall), formerly celebrated for its miraculous efficacy in the cure of diseases, and which, in Mr. Pennant's time, was still famed for the divinations of a sibyl, according to the appearance or non-appearance of a fish lurking in some of its holes. Moely-Cynghorion, or "the hill of council," on the southern confines of the parish, is supposed to derive its name from a council held upon it by the Welsh chieftains, when about to surrender to the victorious Edward.
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