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Neath (Castell Nedd) - From 'A Topographical Dictionary of Wales' (1849)
NEATH (CASTELL NEDD), a borough, market-town, and parish, and the head of a union, in the hundred of Neath, county of Glamorgan, South Wales, 35 miles (W. N. W.) from Cardiff, and 197 (W.) from London, on the road from Cardiff to Swansea; the parish containing, in the year 1841, 4970 inhabitants. This place, which is by all antiquaries allowed to be the Nidum of the Romans, derives its name from the river on which it is situated, and of which the Welsh name, Nidd, or Nedd, is pronounced nearly as the English word Neath. In the twelfth Iter of Antoninus it is mentioned, under the above appellation, as being situated on the road between Leucarum (Loughor) and Bovium, the latter station supposed to have been at or near the present village of Boverton, south of Cowbridge. Though repeated and minute researches have been made at various times, no military works have yet been discovered which mark out, with any precision, the exact site of the station at Neath. The churchyard, which is of considerable extent, and in the form of a parallelogram, with a small elevation at the western side, has with some degree of probability been considered the site of the original camp; and of late years, two Roman coins and a cameo are said to have been found in the garden adjoining the rectory-house, which is not more than twenty yards from the spot.
After the conquest of Glamorganshire by FitzHamon, Richard de Granville, one of his knights, obtained a grant of the honour and lordship of Neath, with the privilege of exercising jura regalia, and all the other rights of a lordship marcher. The castle, of which only a small portion is at present remaining, is said to have formed part of the possessions of Iestyn ab Gwrgan, by whom it is supposed to have been originally built; but it is certain that Richard de Granville, if not the founder, materially improved it: the church, in its immediate vicinity, is thought to have been originally a chapel for the accommodation of the garrison, and to have been subsequently enlarged, and appropriated to the use of the parishioners. The same Richard, in the reign of Henry I., with the concurrence of his wife Constance, gave their chapel belonging to the castle, with all its endowments, a considerable tract of waste land in the neighbourhood, and other property, to the abbot of the convent of Grey friars at Savigny, in France, for the erection and endowment of a similar monastery near the town of Neath. A magnificent abbey was consequently built in the neighbourhood, from designs by a celebrated architect from Palestine, named Lalys, who erected several churches and other public buildings in South Wales. The abbey, which was at first dedicated to the Holy Trinity, was subsequently occupied by brethren of the Cistercian order; but it does not appear to have been dependent upon any foreign religious establishment, or to have been regarded as an alien priory, as it continued to flourish till the time of the general dissolution, when its revenue was £150. 4. 9. per annum. During the protracted warfare between the lords marcher and the native chieftains, one of the latter, named Morgan ab Owain, burned the monastery, killing four of the servants and one of the monks, and committing great ravages on its lands. The ruins of this venerable pile, which afforded an asylum to the unfortunate Edward of Carnarvon, are among the most interesting specimens of ecclesiastical architecture in the principality, and are noticed in the article on Cadoxton, in which parish they are situated.
Soon after the accession of Stephen, Grufydd ab Rhŷs, having laid waste the Norman possessions in Cardiganshire, advanced into the territory of Glamorgan; and the Norman lords, rallying their forces in the neighbourhood of this town, are said to have been attacked here by the Welsh army, led on by the sons of Caradoc ab Iestyn, who were lords of the district between the rivers Tawe and Avon. A sanguinary conflict is said to have ensued, in which 3000 men are supposed to have fallen by the sword; the Normans were completely routed, and the few that survived the battle were compelled to seek an asylum in the castles of Gower. About a century after this event, the town, which had been burnt to the ground in 1185, was again taken, and the inhabitants were nearly exterminated by Morgan Gam and Llewelyn, in 1231. The custody of Neath Castle appears to have been an important office; Edward I. gave it to Walter de Hakelute in 1296, Edward II. to John de Everdon and Ingelram de Berenger, Edward III. to Hugh Hacluit in 1330, and Richard III. committed it to Richard Willoughby.
The town is situated on the eastern bank of the navigable river Neath, over which is a bridge, and in the Vale of Neath, a district abounding in rich and varied scenery. The vale expands to a considerable breadth at this place, and is open on both sides to the adjacent country; it is remarkable for the salubrity of its air, and is finely sheltered from the colder winds by the lofty hills with which it is surrounded, without being at all confined. Neath has undergone extensive improvement, and several of the streets have been considerably widened and well paved; the houses, which have been modernised, are in general respectable, and there are some of handsome appearance. A philosophical society, museum, library, and mechanics' institute are supported; and occasional concerts and balls take place at the Castle hotel, which affords excellent accommodation to the numerous visiters who are attracted to this place by the interesting scenery in the neighbourhood, and the beautiful cascades with which the upper part of the Vale of Neath abounds.
From its situation in the centre of a populous district containing extensive collieries, and copper, iron, tin, and chemical works, the town has been for some time increasing in importance as a place of commerce. The almost inexhaustible mines of coal being more than sufficient for the supply of the town and neighbourhood, and of the various works in the environs, great quantities are shipped off to the lower parts of Somersetshire, Devonshire, and Cornwall, to Ireland, &c. It is computed that 100,000 tons are annually brought down the vale by the Neath canal alone, for exportation. At Neath Abbey, about a mile from the town, in Cadoxton parish, are some iron-works, established in 1792, and conducted on a very large scale; comprising two blast furnaces for the making of iron from the ore, an iron-foundry for casting the various parts of engine and mill work, and an enginefactory. Latterly, iron steam-boats have been constructed here. From these works many of the ironworks in the principality have been furnished with their powerful engines for blowing the furnaces used in the manufacture of iron, and for the rolling of that metal; copper-works have likewise been supplied with rolling-engines, and with the requisite machinery for the manufacture of copper. Many of the large pumping-engines now in operation in the mining districts of Cornwall were made in this establishment, which has also supplied the Anglo-Mexican and Real del Monte mining-companies with steam-engines for draining their mines. Engines for maritime uses, and locomotive-engines on rail and tram roads, have likewise been made to a very considerable extent. The number of persons employed in these works, and in the collieries and mines connected with them, averages about 400. The copper-works are situated to the south of Neath Abbey, on the western bank of the river; they are also in Cadoxton parish, and form two establishments, called the Crown and the MinesRoyal works, belonging respectively to the Crown and the Mines-Royal copper-companies. The tinworks are on the banks of the river and of the canal, about one mile and a half above the town; and on the eastern side of the river, a little below the town, are some extensive chemical works. There are no works actually within the parish of Neath.
The port is a creek to that of Swansea. The exports are coal, culm, copper, iron, iron-castings, spelter, fire-bricks, oak timber, bark, and wool; the imports are copper and iron ores, corn, flour, foreign timber, black-jack, and groceries and other articles of general consumption. The port, or out-port, is at Briton-Ferry, about two miles and a quarter below the bridge at Neath, reckoning by the course of the river: vessels of considerable burthen can sail up to the town, but the trade is generally carried on by means of barges communicating with Briton-Ferry harbour. The construction of a floating-harbour within the borough, on the left bank of the river, was once in contemplation, but the design was abandoned. The river and harbour were greatly improved some years ago at an expense of £3000, defrayed conjointly by the Neath canal company and the proprietors of the works in the neighbourhood; and the alterations then made were productive of considerable benefit. In 1843 an act was passed for the further improvement of the port. Steam communication is maintained with Bristol, &c. The Neath canal extends from Briton-Ferry to near the head of the vale, a distance of thirteen miles. At Aber-Dylas, about a mile and a half above the town, it is united by a stone aqueduct of eleven arches with the Swansea and Neath Junction canal, by means of which the mineral riches on either side of the vale may be conveyed to the port of Swansea. The latter canal is remarkable for being carried through a distance of nine miles without a lock. The great South Wales railway, also, will pass by Neath, crossing the river below the town; it will likewise pass near BritonFerry. The Vale of Neath railway, for which acts were obtained in 1846 and 1847, will run for the greater part of its distance parallel with the river and the Neath canal, terminating at Merthyr-Tydvil: its total length, including branches, will be above thirty miles; and it will form a junction, at Neath, with the South Wales line. A considerable station for the two lines was commenced here in 1849. The market, which is well supplied with corn and with provisions of every kind, is on Wednesday; fairs are held on the Thursday after Trinity Sunday, on July 31st, and September 12th, and some additional fairs have been established by the new corporation. In 1835 an act was obtained for removing the market, and providing another market-place, which was accordingly opened in 1837.
Neath, being parcel of the great lordship of Glamorgan, was one of the places which obtained from Edward II. a new charter, conferring valuable immunities, granted through the influence of that monarch's favourite, the younger Hugh Spencer, among whose possessions this lordship was included. It is nevertheless regarded as a borough by prescription. Another charter, bestowed in the reign of James II., is addressed to the "Reeve, Aldermen, and Burgesses," and vests the government in a portreeve, twelve aldermen, and an indefinite number of burgesses. The members of the corporation when the act 5th and 6th of William IV., c. 76, for changing the constitution of boroughs, was passed, comprised a constable of the castle, a portreeve, twelve aldermen, eight capital burgesses, a recorder, two commonattornies, two serjeants-at-mace, a layer-keeper, two haywards, two ale-tasters, &c. Of these, the constable of the castle was appointed by the lord of the borough, and the recorder by the constable; the portreeve was chosen on the 9th of November every year by the constable, from three aldermen nominated by their own body on the 27th of September previous. The common-attornies, who acted as treasurers, were elected from among the freemen by the aldermen and capital burgesses, who also named four burgesses, two of them to be elected as serjeants-atmace by the constable of the castle. On a vacancy occurring among the body of aldermen, the remaining aldermen filled up the number.
By the act of William IV., the corporation is now styled the "Mayor, Aldermen, and Burgesses," and consists of a mayor, four aldermen, and twelve councillors, together constituting the council of the borough, of which the municipal and parliamentary limits are the same. The council elect the mayor annually on November 9th, out of the aldermen or councillors; and the aldermen triennially from among the councillors, or persons qualified as such, one-half going out of office every three years, but being reeligible: the councillors are chosen annually on November 1st by and from among the enrolled burgesses, one-third going out of office annually. Aldermen and councillors must have a property qualification of £500, or be rated at £15 annual value. The burgesses consist of the occupiers of houses and shops who have been rated for three years to the relief of the poor. Two auditors and two assessors are elected annually on March 1st by and out of the burgesses; and the council appoint a town-clerk, treasurer, and other officers on November 9th.
The income of the borough, as returned to parliament by the commissioners for inquiring into the state of municipal corporations, was derived from the following sources; namely, £83. 8. 6., rents of houses and land; £60, annual dividends upon canal shares; £20, arising from market tolls; £3, consisting of small fees for the use of the standard corn measure; about £100, received by the portreeve as tolls and port dues; and £27, the property of the layer-keeper: the whole producing about £300 a year. This income, however, is stated in the return to be subject to a charge of £42 per annum, payable to a person during life, in consideration of his having given up a lease of premises required for the improvement of the town. Two alienations of real property appear to have been made by the corporation within the last half century; the first in 1801, when land was sold to Mrs. Miers for a sum of £1500, a considerable part of which was ultimately applied towards building the present town-hall; and the second in the year 1825, when a piece of land was disposed of to Mr. Whittington for £500, that amount being needed for the satisfaction of a debt owing to him for fitting up the edifice. It also appears that every burgess was formerly entitled to receive from the lord of the manor thirteen loads of coal annually, being one load every four weeks, upon payment of one shilling per load; but this privilege ceased to be enjoyed about fifty years since; and it is not now known in what right it was claimed.
Neath was one of eight contributory boroughs which returned a member to parliament. Of these, Swansea, Aberavon, Kenvig, Loughor, and Neath, were, by the act of 1832, for "Amending the representation of the People," constituted a separate district, with the privilege of returning a representative. The right of election was formerly in the burgesses at large, a hundred in number, of whom about twenty resided within the borough. It is now, by the act, vested in the old burgesses only, resident within seven miles of the town, if duly registered according to the provisions of the act; and in every male person of full age occupying, either as owner, or as tenant under the same landlord, a house or other premises of the annual value of £10 or upwards, provided he be capable of registering as the act directs. The present number of tenements of this value, within the limits of the borough, which were altered by the Boundary Act, and are minutely described in the Appendix to this work, is about 180.
The corporation claim, but since 1798 have not exercised, the right of holding a court of pleas for the recovery of debts to any amount; and a court baron was held until 1816 by the constable of the castle, for debts under 40s. The Midsummer quartersessions for the county, and the petty-sessions for the hundred, take place at Neath; and one of the county debt-courts established in 1847 is fixed here, with jurisdiction over the Neath registration-district. It is also a polling-station in the election of knights for the shire. The town-hall is a neat and commodious edifice, in the Grecian style of architecture, with a handsome receding portico of the Ionic order; but, being out of the line of the principal thoroughfare, it is not seen to advantage. The upper part of the building contains a large council-chamber, with a jury-room and apartments for the petty-sessions and other business of the local magistracy: the lower part is appropriated to the use of the corn market.
The living is a rectory, with the living of Lantwit annexed, rated in the king's books at £16. 2. 3½.; present net income, £353, with a glebe-house; patrons, the Trustees of the late Marquess of Bute. The church, dedicated to St. Thomas the Apostle, is a spacious and ancient structure, of which the nave was rebuilt about a century since; the interior is commodiously fitted up, and has a fine-toned organ, presented by the late Sir R. H. Mackworth, Bart. There are places of worship for Independents, Wesleyans, Baptists, the Society of Friends, Calvinistic Methodists, and Unitarians. Mr. John Davies, in 1719, bequeathed £200 to be laid out in the purchase of land for the erection and endowment of a free school; with which sum two tenements, called Bryndare and Ynyscoed, containing together about eighty-four acres, have been purchased; but the original intention of the testator has not yet been fully carried into effect. The interest of £500 received in lieu of the accumulated rent of these farms, and from sales of timber, together with the interest of £100 left by the late Mr. Gwyn, has, in the interim, been appropriated in aid of a National school for boys and girls, which is also partly supported by subscription and children's pence. The rental of the two farms, together with £100 left by William Cross, in 1785, and £30, its accumulated interest, is under the management of the rector, churchwardens, and overseers. Eight Sunday schools are held, two of which are in connexion with the Established Church.
There are various charitable bequests for distribution among the poor, principally in bread, among which are, £2 per annum left by Evan Leyson, in 1634; £1 by William Cross, in 1785; and £3. 16. paid out of the parish rates, as interest due upon a legacy bequeathed by John Davies. This legacy is supposed to have been appropriated to parochial uses, in the repairs of an almshouse in Water-street, left by John Gibbs, in 1670, as a habitation for four poor widows, but which has been so enlarged as to be now capable of accommodating twelve objects of the charity. Mr. Davies also assigned 10s. per annum for ringing the curfew bell. A bequest of £5 to the poor, by Mary Jones, in 1743, has been unproductive. The poor-law union of which this town is the head, was formed September 2nd, 1836, and comprises the following twenty-nine parishes and townships; namely, Aberavon, Higher and Lower Baglan, Blaen-Gwrach, Blaen-Honddan, Briton-Ferry, Clyne, Coed-Frank, Dyfryn-Clydach, Higher and Lower Dylas, Glyn-Corwg, Kîlybebill, Lantwitjuxta-Neath, Llanguicke, Higher and Lower Llansamlet, Margam, Upper and Lower Michaelstonsuper-Avon, Neath; Higher, Middle, and Lower Neath; Resolven, and Ynis-y-Mond, in the county of Glamorgan; and Upper and Lower Ystradgunlais, and Ystradvelltey, in the shire of Brecknock. It is under the superintendence of thirty-three guardians, and contains a population of 32,627.
Within the parish is Gnoll Castle, formerly the seat of Sir Herbert Mackworth, Bart., whose widow conveyed it by marriage to Capel Hanbury Leigh, Esq., of Pontypool Park, in Monmouthshire, from whom it was purchased by Henry J. Grant, Esq. To this gentleman, as proprietor of the estate, belong also the custody of Neath Castle, and the lordship of the borough. The mansion, which possesses the magnificence of a baronial residence, is a conspicuous object from all parts of the circumjacent country. It has been modernised: the principal front consists of a centre, with wings and two semicircular towers; and the grounds, which are extensive, are laid out with great taste. Of the ancient castle of Neath, in the lower part of the town, near the river, only some small portions are at present remaining; and of the walls that once encompassed the town there are no vestiges.
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