Laugharne, otherwise Tàlycharn - From 'A Topographical Dictionary of Wales' (1849)
LAUGHARNE, otherwise TÀLYCHARN, an incorporated sea-port and market-town, and a parish, in the Higher division of the hundred of Derllŷs, union and county of Carmarthen, South Wales, 12½ miles (S. W.) from Carmarthen, and 228 (W.) from London; containing 2010 inhabitants, of whom 1389 are in the township of Laugharne. The ancient British name of this place, Tàlycharn, or Tàlycoran, from which was derived its subsequent appellation of Llacharn, since modernised into Laugharne, is supposed to have originated in its situation above the mouth of the river Coran, which here falls into the Tâf, near the influx of the latter river into Carmarthen bay: from this circumstance, also, it is not unfrequently called in the Welsh histories Abercoran. It appears to have attained a considerable degree of importance at a very early period, and to have been distinguished as a fortified place prior to the Norman invasion. Of the original foundation of the castle nothing satisfactory has been recorded: it is, however, supposed, that the Princes of Dynevor had either a palace or a fortress at this place, which subsequently fell into the hands of the Norman invaders, who, for the greater security of the territories which they usurped in this part of the principality, replaced it with a castle of greater strength. Frequent mention of this castle occurs in the Welsh annals. During the continued struggles between the Normans and the Welsh, who were ever upon the alert to recover the territories of which they had been dispossessed, and also in the numerous contests that arose between the native chieftains, for the extension of their dominions, it was, from its strength and importance, an object of frequent contention, and alternately in the possession of the belligerent parties.
Henry II., on his return from a fruitless expedition into Ireland, in 1172, passed through this place, where he was met by Rhŷs ab Grufydd, the last sovereign prince of South Wales, who entertained him in the castle, paid him homage as his vassal, and received from him his son Howel, whom that monarch had long held as a hostage. In the year 1215, the castle, together with several other fortresses, at that time in the hands of the Normans, was taken and destroyed by Llewelyn ab Iorwerth, Prince of North Wales; but was rebuilt in the following reign, by Sir Guido de Brian, who, having espoused one of the daughters of Prince Rhŷs, obtained the lordship of Tàlycharn, and procured for the town a charter of incorporation, with many valuable privileges, conferring on the burgesses an extensive grant of land, of which they still retain possession. On the death of Sir Guido, the lordship of Tàlycharn descended to one of his two daughters and coheiresses, who married Owen Laugharne, of St. Bride's, in the county of Pembroke. The castle is said to have been again destroyed, by the forces under Llewelyn ab Grufydd, Prince of North Wales, in 1256; from which time few particulars of its history are recorded till the reign of Henry VII., though it was probably rebuilt within that period, as that monarch, among other grants, in compensation for his great services, gave the castle and its dependencies to Sir Rhŷs ab Thomas, who had attended him to Bosworth Field, and by his valour and influence had contributed materially to the success of the enterprise which placed him on the throne. On the attainder of the grandson of Rhŷs, the castle reverted to the crown. During the civil war in the reign of Charles I., it was first garrisoned for the king, but was taken, in 1644, by the parliamentarian forces, under General William Laugharne. Subsequently, when this commander had embraced the royal cause, it was besieged by Cromwell; it held out for three weeks, but several breaches having been made in the walls, the garrison surrendered upon honourable terms, and the castle was soon afterwards dismantled.
The town is beautifully situated on a level plot of ground, inclosed on every side, except towards the sea, by lofty eminences richly clothed with timber. It consists principally of one long and spacious street, intersected at right angles by a shorter thoroughfare, leading to that part of it called the Cors, in which are some new buildings. The houses are in general well built, and of respectable appearance; the streets are partially paved, and the inhabitants are amply supplied with water. Its sheltered situation protects it from the keenness of the winds, and renders it peculiarly desirable as a residence for persons of delicate health; whilst on the eminences by which it is immediately encircled are several neat cottage residences, adapted to those whose constitutions may require the influence of the sea-breeze and a bracing atmosphere. The surrounding scenery is pleasingly diversified, and from the higher grounds are obtained extensive prospects over the bay of Carmarthen, and the adjacent country, which abounds with picturesque beauty. The appearance of the town, which is considered one of the cleanest and best built in South Wales, embosomed in an amphitheatre of verdant hills, and ornamented with the venerable remains of its ancient castle, is truly romantic; and the advantages of good society and retirement which it affords, with the abundance and moderate price of provisions, are among the attractions that it offers to families who may be desirous of combining economy with comfort. A reading-room has been established.
The port is a creek to that of Llanelly; its trade is very small, being almost confined to the exportation of butter and corn, which it shares with St. Clear's. The haven, formed by the river Tâf, at a short distance from the town, is accessible to vessels of considerable burthen. The parish is divided into two portions, called respectively the Town Hamlet and the Parish, and comprises a large tract of arable and pasture land, nearly all of which is inclosed and in a good state of cultivation: in the Parish portion are 5185 acres. The soil, though varying with the surface, is in general fertile and productive; and the labouring inhabitants, with the exception only of such few as are connected with the small extent of trade carried on at the port, are principally employed in agriculture. The market, which is abundantly supplied with corn and with provisions of all kinds, is on Friday; and fairs are held annually on May 6th and September 28th.
The borough was first incorporated by Sir Guido de Brian, who granted to his burgesses of "Tallacharn" all the good laws and customs which those of "Karmardin" enjoyed, together with liberty to choose two competent burgesses "for one portreeveship" twice a year, namely at Michaelmas and Easter; and other privileges, including free common in his forest of Coed Bâch, all the common pasture in the marsh of Tàlycharn, called Menetors, and all the free common of Makerells. The charter which contained the grant of these immunities was confirmed by Henry III., and ratified and enlarged by Edward VI.; but the regulations laid down by these monarchs do not appear to have been acted upon, as in the appointment of a portreeve the corporation acknowledges only the authority of the original charter, and in all other matters proceeds according to custom and to bye-laws, which latter, commencing in the tenth year of Queen Anne, are entered from time to time in the corporation books. The members and officers of the corporation are, a portreeve, a recorder or town-clerk, two common-attornies, a bailiff, four constables, and an indefinite number of burgesses; the principal governing body consists of the portreeve and a jury of burgesses. Two principal courts are held at the town-hall on the first Monday after Michaelmas, and the first Monday after Easter-Monday, in every year; at which the bailiff appoints from eighteen to twenty-one of the burgesses as a jury for the ensuing half-year; and these burgesses, upon being sworn, elect a portreeve, who, with twelve of the jury, constitutes a court. The jury, who may vote by a mere majority, make bye-laws for the government of the borough, elect the officers, grant leases, and dispose of the rents of the corporation; subject, however, to the approval of the portreeve, by whom all presentments "must be confirmed and signed before they can take effect." The recorder, who officiates as clerk of the court, is chosen for life by the jury at any court or adjournment. The bailiff, who is crier and keeper of the market-place, is appointed by the portreeve at the Michaelmas court, for a year; and the commonattornies, who collect rents and superintend repairs, are, with the constables, elected by the jury at the same time and for the same period as the bailiff. The burgesses who have become such by right, consist of sons and sons-in-law of burgesses, and apprentices that have served seven years with a burgess in the town; but others may be admitted by favour of the jury.
The property of the corporation, which is of considerable value, consists of lands and buildings, the waste land throughout the township, and tolls of corn. Of the lands the principal portion, amounting to about 330 acres lying near the town, is divided into seventy-six shares, varying in value from £2 to £5 a year each, and of which twenty shares are at Haydon, sixteen at Moor, and forty at Undercliff; the Haydon shares containing about ten acres each, the Moor four or five, and the Undercliff one acre and a half; and the whole being in the occupation of the seventy-six senior burgesses, who hold upon payment of nominal rents, and are entitled to vote for the county member. Other property is let in about 170 parcels, in most instances to different tenants, and produces an income of £70. The toll of corn brought into the town for sale, to which the corporation claims the right, has been relinquished in consequence of a dispute; and the portreeve, by whom the produce, which was of very small amount, was received, has now a salary in lieu of his former privilege. The boundaries of the borough are co-extensive with those of the township of Laugharne, which is bordered on the north by the parish of the same name, on the north-west by the parish of Llandawke, on the west by that of Llansadwrnen, on the south by Carmarthen bay, and on the east by the river Tâf. The town-hall is a neat building of ordinary dimensions, with a small square tower, situated at the point of intersection of the principal street with the smaller one, where is a commodious market-place.
The living is a vicarage, rated in the king's books at £6, with the rectory of Llansadwrnen annexed; present net income of the benefice, £411, with a glebe-house; patrons, the Dean and Chapter of Winchester; impropriators of the parish, Lord Kensington, and G. Watkins, Esq. The church, dedicated to St. Martin, is a spacious and venerable cruciform structure, in the early style of English architecture, with a square embattled tower, supported on pointed arches: it occupies a picturesque situation on an eminence under a richly wooded bank, by which it is partly concealed from view. The walls of the building are strengthened with projecting buttresses, and within are covered by numerous tablets. At the west end is a handsome organ, presented to the church at an expense of above £400, by the late Vice-Admiral Laugharne. Among the monuments contained in the church is a large mural tablet, bearing a long inscription, to the memory of Sir John Powell, one of the judges who presided at the trial of the seven bishops, in the reign of James II.; he resided at Broadway House, a little to the west of the town, and, dying at the age of sixtythree, was interred here in 1696. A richly embroidered mantle is still preserved in it, supposed by some to have belonged to Sir Guido de Brian; but it has been suggested that it is rather a priest's vestment, as there are saints' effigies represented on the sides. The chapels of Kifig and Marrôs, formerly dependent on the church, were endowed with £8 per annum each by the Vicar of Laugharne, and subsequently by the Governors of Queen Anne's Bounty, the former with £600 and the latter with £800, and are now united into one benefice, in the patronage of the Vicar of Laugharne. There are places of worship for Baptists, Independents, and Calvinistic and Wesleyan Methodists. National schools for boys, girls, and infants, are supported; and several Sunday schools are held, one of them in connexion with the Established Church.
Matthew Warren, in 1656, granted a rent-charge of £2. 12. upon the Black Horse inn, Thomas-street, Bristol, for the purpose of distributing a shilling's worth of bread in penny loaves on each Sunday among twelve poor widows or old maids of the town; and Jane Morgan, and Mary Griffiths, in 1811, gave each £52 to be applied in a similar manner. In 1681, Zacharias Thomas granted a rent-charge of £4 for the use of the poor, two-thirds to be appropriated to the relief of those in the town, and one-third to that of persons in the rural district. In 1731, Letitia Cornwallis gave £100, the interest to be annually distributed on the 6th of January among the most necessitous cottagers: this charity remained dormant for some years, but being, with other bequests of the benefactress, placed in Chancery, an order was made after the report of the master in 1782, that the funds had accumulated to £358. 15. Bank Annuities, the dividends on which were regularly distributed according to the directions of the donor until 1821, when it was found necessary to make other applications to the Court of Chancery, through the death of trustees. Theodosia, sister to Admiral Laugharne, in the year 1822, among other benefactions, bequeathed £1800, in trust to the vicar and churchwardens, who, after the payment of certain annuities to one or two servants, were to appropriate the proceeds to the payment of £30 the salary of the organist, and to keeping the stove of the church in repair, and well supplied with fuel; the residue to be disposed of among the aged and infirm poor at Christmas. The same lady left £300 to establish a school of industry in the town, after the termination of a certain annuity. It also appears that Elizabeth Foster bequeathed £150, the interest to be applied to the instruction of children in reading, and the Christian religion; the proceeds go towards the support of the infants' school.
The remains of the ancient castle, on the summit of a cliff at the mouth of the river Tâf, near the southern extremity of the town, are extensive, and in an excellent state of preservation, forming an interesting and prominent feature in the scenery of the place: near the gateway is a handsome modern edifice, which was the residence of the late Col. Starke, by whom the interior of the castle and the adjoining ground were tastefully laid out. About a mile from the town are some remains of an ancient building, called Roche's Castle, which, according to local tradition, are said to be the vestiges of an ancient monastery, though by whom founded, or for what order of brethren, is not known.
The family of Laugharne have been settled at this place ever since the marriage of their ancestor, Owen Laugharne, with the daughter of Sir Guido de Brian, Lord High Admiral of England, and anciently lord of Tàlycharn. Descended from this family, and probably a native of this town, was Lieutenant-General William Laugharne, who first distinguished himself as an officer in the parliamentarian army, but who, afterwards joining the royalist party, garrisoned Laugharne, Tenby, and Pembroke, for the king, and at the last-named place was taken prisoner. He was tried for his life, together with Colonels Powell and Poyer, who had also been made prisoners by Cromwell; and they were all found guilty of high treason. After sentence of death had been passed upon these three officers, Cromwell was induced to consent that it should be carried into execution only upon one of them, and gave orders to determine by lot which should be the victim. Three papers were folded up for this purpose, on two of which was written "Life given by God," and the third was left blank. According to an arrangement agreed upon by the prisoners, the lots were drawn by a child, and the fatal blank was assigned to Colonel Poyer, who was shot in Covent Garden, on the 25th of April, 1649. Dr. Josiah Tucker, Dean of Gloucester, an eminent divine and a celebrated literary and political writer, was born in this parish in the year 1712, and died at the advanced age of eighty-seven, in the year 1799. His writings were chiefly on subjects connected with the times in which he lived, and, though masterpieces of the kind, possess little interest at present. He was the liberal patron of that premature and extraordinary genius, John Henderson, who, under his auspices, prosecuted his studies at Oxford, where he took his degree of B. A., and died at the age of thirty-one, in 1788. Reynal Pecock, of whom little more is stated than that he was a very learned man, was also a native of this parish. Mrs. Bevan, who left a large sum of money for the support of schoolmasters to travel from place to place, was a resident at Laugharne. |
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