| Llandaf - From 'A Topographical Dictionary of Wales' (1849) LLANDAF, an ancient and decayed city, and a parish, in the union of Cardiff, hundred of Kibbor, county of Glamorgan, South Wales, 2 miles (N. W.) from Cardiff, and 161 (W.) from London; containing 1276 inhabitants. The name of this place is a contraction of the Welsh words Llan ar Dâf, signifying "the church on the Tâf," a branch of which river flows under the walls of the churchyard. It is uncertain at what period it first became the site of human habitations, or the seat of a religious congregation. Some writers assert, but on doubtful authority, that a church has existed here since the year 186: according to an ancient Welsh manuscript, the first church was built by Tewdric ab Teithvalch, commonly called St. Tewdric the Martyr, grandfather of the renowned King Arthur, about the year 450. The first bishop of Llandaf mentioned in authentic history is Dubricius, a native of the country included in the modern Pembrokeshire, and called by the Welsh Dyvrig Beneurog, "Dubricius the Golden-headed." To this holy office he was consecrated, in the beginning of the sixth century, by Germanus, Bishop of Auxerre, and Lupus, Bishop of Troyes, who had been sent into Britain to uproot the Pelagian heresy, in which labour they were greatly assisted by Dubricius. The first endowment of the see was made during the episcopacy of this prelate, to whom certain lands were given by Meurig, son of Tewdric, and his successor in the sovereignty of Gwent, in a general council of his nation, and with the consent of the nobility, clergy, and laity.
Dubricius, after presiding for a short time at Llandaf, was advanced to the metropolitan see of Caerleon (subsequently removed to St. David's), and was succeeded in the episcopate by the famous St. Teilo, or Teilaw, descended from the Cuneddian line of princes. With the aid of Dubricius, St. Teilo established a college at Llandaf, called after his name Bangor Teilo: he was slain by a nobleman in his own cathedral at Llandaf, which church was afterwards frequently called after his name Llan Deilaw. It is stated in Cressy's Church History, that many miracles were wrought by this saint, both in his lifetime and after his death; but the author recites only one, which he gives on the authority of Bishop Godwin, to the effect that, after Teilo's death, the inhabitants of three several places earnestly contended for the honour of his interment; those of Pennalum, where his ancestors had been buried; those of Llandilo-Vawr, where, according to one account, he died; and those of Llandaf, among whom he had been bishop. When at length no agreement could be effected among them, there presently appeared three bodies of St. Teilo, exactly resembling each other, one of which was taken by the people of each of the above-named places, and thus the dispute ended; but Bishop Godwin adds for the honour of his own church, that, by frequent miracles performed at his tomb, it appeared that the inhabitants of Llandaf possessed the true body. Dubricius, the first bishop, lived to a very advanced age, and dying in 522, at Ynys Enlli, or Bardsey Island, in North Wales, his remains were thence removed in the twelfth century to Llandaf, and interred before the high altar of the cathedral church, where a monument was erected to his memory. During the prelacy of Oudoceus, the successor of St. Teilo, Meurig ab Tewdric, King of Gwent, in a synod held at Llandaf, was excommunicated for the perfidious murder of Cunedda; his dominions were also laid under interdict for two years, after the expiration of which he was allowed to make his peace with the church by the customary mode of increasing its endowments. During the presidency of these three bishops the endowments had gradually accumulated, so as to render the see one of the richest in Christendom. Bishop Aidan, the second successor of Oudoceus, was killed in 720 by the Saxons, who at this period made great ravages in South Wales.
Marchluith, or Marchlwys, the twenty-fourth bishop of the diocese, over which he presided in the reign of Hywel Dda, was chosen, among others, by that monarch, to compile the code of laws for the enactment of which Hywel's reign is so distinguished in the Welsh annals. According to Caradoc of Llancarvan, from the death of Pater or Paternus, Marchluith's immediate successor, in 961, to the consecration of Gucan, Gogwan, or Gwrgan, the twenty-sixth bishop, in 982, Roderic, son of Morgan Hên, King of Glamorgan, was bishop of the diocese: but having been raised to the see contrary to the wishes of the pope, the latter, in his anger, issued a bull forbidding all marriages in the diocese without his special license: this injunction, however, it was impossible for the priests to obey, the people compelling them to perform the marriage ceremony without the pontiff's sanction. In the year 987, the cathedral church was burned by a large party of marauding Danes, who made extensive ravages in the adjacent country and along the neighbouring coasts. Bledri, the successor of Gwrgan, who was consecrated in 993, and died in 1022, was celebrated as the most eminent scholar of his time, on which account he obtained the name of "Bledri the Wise:" he instituted parochial schools in every church of his diocese, in which the priests were directed to instruct the people. Every encouragement was likewise given to these schools by his successor Joseph, who enjoined the clergy to teach the people gratuitously to read the sacred Scriptures, and made some strict regulations for the better observance of the Sunday, and the Church holidays. During the episcopacy of this prelate, who died in 1046, Rhydderch ab Iestyn, Prince of Glamorgan, granted many privileges to the church of Llandaf, and confirmed to it all its former possessions.
After the decease of Joseph's successor Herewald, the see remained vacant for about four years, until the consecration to it, in August 1108, of Urban, Archdeacon of Llandaf, who found the cathedral in great dilapidation, it having frequently been despoiled by the Saxons and other invaders who had infested the coast, and by the Normans, whose subjugation of the native population of Glamorgan had now become permanent. The revenues of the diocese had likewise been greatly diminished, from the unsettled state of the country, and the negligence of those to whose care they had been intrusted. On representing these circumstances to Pope Calixtus II., at the council of Rheims, in 1119, Urban procured from that pontiff letters to the King of England, the Archbishop of Canterbury, and the clergy and principal persons in the diocese of Llandaf, exhorting them to afford him their assistance in making the necessary repairs. Having for this purpose raised a large sum of money, he pulled down the old cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, a small edifice only twenty-eight feet in length, fifteen in width, and twenty in height; and, in April 1120, began the erection of the magnificent edifice a great part of which, though in ruins, is still standing, and which he dedicated to St. Peter, and the three first bishops of the diocese, namely, St. Dubricius, St. Teilo, and St. Oudoceus. The name of St. Teilo, however, is alone applied to it by the Welsh historians, in whose writings is found occasional mention of Eglwys Teilo, "the church of St. Teilo;" Plwyv Teilo, "the parish or community of St. Teilo;" &c. This edifice, which was either completed by Urban or his immediate successors, was 300 feet in length, 80 feet in breadth, and 30 in height, built of hewn stone, and ornamented with two lofty towers at the western front, and a splendid chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary at the eastern end. Urban also erected houses for the residence of himself, the canons, and other members of the establishment. He next undertook the task of recovering some of the possessions of his see, which had been usurped by the bishops of St. David's and Hereford, and attached to their respective prelacies; and this compelled him to undertake a journey to Rome, in the prosecution of which he died, in 1133.
He was succeeded, after an interval of six years, by Uchtryd, whose nephew, Galfrid, or Geoffrey, who had presided over a college at Llandaf, and acted as domestic chaplain to William, Earl of Gloucester, and lord of Glamorgan, was next consecrated to the see. Llandaf was visited, in 1188, by Archbishop Baldwin and Giraldus Cambrensis, when preaching the crusades in Wales, at which time William de Salso Marisco, or Saltmarsh, was bishop. After the death of this prelate in 1191, Giraldus Cambrensis was himself elected to the see; but refused the proffered dignity, which was accepted by Henry, prior of Abergavenny, who gave certain portions of the property of the cathedral for the support of fourteen prebendaries, constituting the chapter, who had previously shared with the bishop in the revenue of the see; and appropriated to himself and his successors the remainder. The ancient unity of possession of the bishop with the chapter, of which he thus constituted a member, caused the abolition, at a very early period, of the office of dean in the cathedral, a dignity which this circumstance rendered useless, the bishops themselves acting in that capacity, and in their absence appointing a representative in the person of the archdeacon. The names of only two deans are found upon record; the first, a priest named Joseph, who succeeded to the episcopate in the year 1022; and the other, an ecclesiastic named Elni, or Esni, who held this office in the year 1120. Recently, however, the office of dean of Llandaf has been revived.
The seventh successor of Bishop Henry, William de Breos, prebendary of Llandaf, who died in March 1287, was buried in the cathedral, at its northeastern extremity: within the walls of this edifice were also interred William's second successor, John de Monmouth; his sixth successor, John Pascal; and his eighth successor, Edmund Brumfield. The cathedral, together with many other ecclesiastical structures in the principality, sustained great injury from the forces of the insurgent leader Owain Glyndwr, who is also said to have spoiled the neighbouring castellated mansion of the bishop. John Marshall, who was consecrated to the see in 1478, beautified the cathedral church, in which, on his death in 1496, he was buried on the northern side of the choir. Anthony Kitchen, who held the bishopric during the successive reigns of Henry VIII. and his three children, greatly impoverished its revenue by lavish grants. William Morgan, his fourth successor, who was consecrated in 1595, and translated to St. Asaph in 1601, is eminent as the translator of the Old Testament into the Welsh language. His immediate successor was Francis Godwin, subdean of Exeter, and son of Thomas Godwin, Bishop of Bath and Wells; this prelate was author of a valuable catalogue of the bishops of England, and was afterwards translated to the see of Hereford. After the death of Morgan Owen, then bishop, in 1644-5, the see remained vacant for about sixteen years, until the Restoration: during this interval, lands belonging to it valued at no less than £3830. 18. were alienated by the parliament. Richard Watson, Regius professor of divinity in the university of Cambridge, who was promoted to the see in 1782, was distinguished as the author of two "Apologies for Christianity," and a variety of sermons and religious tracts. Attached to this diocese were anciently the two archdeaconries of Monmouth and Glamorgan; but the former soon merged into the latter, and the two, thus united, were called the archdeaconry of Llandaf. At present, there are two archdeaconries, called Llandaf and Monmouth.
The city, now reduced to a mere village, occupies a pleasing and retired situation on the western bank of the river Tâf, on the road from Cardiff to Llantrissent. It stands on elevated ground, gently sloping on all sides, except towards the river, where the descent is more precipitous; and in this bottom stands the cathedral, partially embosomed among trees, with the river murmuring beneath its walls. It consists of little more than two short streets of cottages, not lighted or paved, terminating in a square, into which the great gateway of the old palace formerly opened, and where are still several genteel houses. The Glamorganshire canal passes through the parish, and on its banks, at the hamlet of Gabalva, is a wharf: the great South Wales railway, also, runs on the south-west side of the city. There is no market; but two fairs are held annually, one on the 9th of February, called St. Teilo's, and the other on Whit-Monday, a very large one for cattle, which as a pleasure-fair extends to Tuesday: at Ely Bridge, a populous village in the parish, additional fairs are held on July 22nd and December 11th. During the debates in the house of commons, on the subject of amending the representation of the people, the first Reform bill proposed to make Llandaf contributory to Cardiff; but that arrangement was subsequently altered, and it forms no part of the act. The petty-sessions for the hundred are held here. The parish is composed of five hamlets, united for all purposes, namely Llandaf, Canton, Ely, Fairwater, and Gabalva; the whole comprising 3887a. 3r. 1p. The diocese of Llandaf appears originally to have included the whole of the ancient principality of Siluria, or Gwent. At present its jurisdiction extends, under the act 6th and 7th of William IV. c. 77, over the entire counties of Glamorgan and Monmouth. The ecclesiastical establishment consists of the bishop, a dean, two archdeacons, a chancellor of the church, a chancellor of the diocese, a precentor, treasurer (an office held by the bishop), a number of canons, two priest-vicars or minor canons, a registrar, and inferior officers: the chapter consists of the dean, chancellor of the church, precentor, treasurer, and canons. The priest-vicars, alternately, officiate in the cathedral, as the parochial church. The great tithes of Llandaf and the adjoining parish of Whitchurch are the property of the chapter; the small tithes, commuted for £273, are payable to the senior vicar, and the junior vicar receives a stipend which has been augmented by the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, and now amounts to £140 a year, besides surplice-fees.
The cathedral, which is dedicated, as abovementioned, to St. Peter and the three first bishops of the diocese, presents a remarkably incongruous appearance. The ancient structure, erected in the twelfth century, and subsequently repaired and enlarged in the early and later English styles, having fallen into decay, was again repaired and altered, in the Grecian style of architecture, forming nearly a new edifice within the old walls, which constitute a considerable portion of it, about the year 1751. The façade of the modern church intersects the nave of the ancient edifice, the ruined western portion of which consequently forms a kind of vestibule to the former, and is justly admired as presenting a magnificent specimen of the early English style; on one side is a highly enriched Norman entrance, and on the other a plainer doorway of similar architecture. The west front is ornamented with a series of lancet windows of different sizes, delicately executed and tastefully arranged, and on the northern side has a noble tower in the later style of English architecture, built by Jasper, Duke of Bedford, in 1485, which is in good preservation, except that it is no longer surmounted by the pinnacles by which it was originally adorned, and which were damaged, in 1703, by a violent storm that threw down a corresponding tower on the southern side of this front. Two sides of the remaining tower rest on the walls of the church; while the other two are raised on light arches which spring from a single pillar within. Immediately over the grand entrance is the figure of a bishop, with a pastoral staff in one hand, and the other slightly raised. Above a series of trefoiled arches over the lancet-shaped windows is another figure, in a sitting posture, holding a book in one hand: the whole is surmounted by a cross. Between the western portion of this front and the façade of the present cathedral are the ruins of the greater part of the nave and aisles of the ancient structure, three elegant Gothic arches which separated the former from the latter still standing on each side; the columns are tapered and clustered, and their capitals varied and very neatly sculptured, the ribs of the arches terminating in prettily carved heads.
The cathedral, as altered in 1751, comprises part of the nave, together with the choir, and the greater part of the north and south aisles of the ancient edifice. The expense of the modernisations and alterations amounted to no less than £7000; even the altar was inclosed by a Grecian portico, which, however, was removed, in 1831, by order of the chapter. Through the exertions of the late and the present Dean of Llandaf, a considerable sum has been raised since 1839, by voluntary contributions, for the purpose of aiding in the restoration of the ancient fabric to its original style of architecture; and accordingly, the work of restoration has for some time past been going on. The chapel of St. Mary, at the eastern end of the cathedral, has been fitted up with oak sittings, &c.; and a window has been placed in its east end, bearing the arms of the present bishop, and the late dean, archdeacon, and precentor: the entire length of the chapel inside is fifty-seven feet and a half; its breadth, twenty-four and a half; and its height, about thirty-six feet. A noble arch in the Norman style, of Bishop Urban's work, has been opened out, commanding a striking perspective into the chapel; the mouldings of this arch are in the most perfect preservation, and beneath it, a very beautiful screen of Bishop Marshall's erection, about 1480, has been exposed. The ordinary service of a parish church is performed in the chapel, in English. The choir, and the eastern extremity of the south aisle, with its fine windows and open-work parapets, are undergoing restoration; and it is to be hoped that funds will be obtained, at no distant period, for the restoration of the nave. The building of 1751 chiefly occupies the choir, and it has been ascertained that the old walls were then encased, so that, by removing the plaster and new stone-work, the edifice resumes its former character. Adjoining the southern side of the cathedral is the chapter-house, a square building, inclosing an apartment of the same form, the roof of which is supported by arches springing in different directions from a pillar in the centre; this apartment measures about thirty-six feet long each side. The business of the chapter, however, is now transacted in a small building at the north-west corner of the churchyard.
Besides many of the bishops who have successively filled the see, some persons of distinction, formerly resident in the neighbourhood, have been interred in the cathedral; but of the monumental memorials comparatively few, owing to the repairs and alterations which the edifice has undergone, now remain; and these have for the most part been removed from their original positions, and become greatly dilapidated. At the eastern end of the south aisle is one bearing the sculptured effigy in marble of a lady, supposed to be the wife of John, Lord Audley, who is represented in a long robe reaching to her feet; and behind are the figures of two monks holding an escutcheon. In the same aisle is a monument consisting of the figure of a skeleton, of large proportions, in a shroud, placed under a Gothic niche; another, the recumbent figure of a knight in armour; a third, a rich painted and gilded tomb, supporting a male and a female figure in alabaster, the former clothed in armour, and the latter in long loose robes, with ruffles, and a rich and singular head-dress; a fourth, the effigies of two bishops, rudely sculptured; and a fifth, also constituting the tomb of a prelate. In the north aisle is the effigy of a female wrapped in a loose robe, and displaying in her form and countenance striking marks of sickness and decay. At the upper end of this aisle was the chapel of the Matthew family, and monuments in alabaster to the memory of two of its members are still preserved here. In the chapter-house were the disunited remains of an elegant and costly tomb of alabaster, representing a knight and his lady richly habited, now restored, and re-erected on a tomb on the left as the cathedral is entered. Among memorials of less note is one attributed to St. Dubricius; and during the recent repairs, when clearing out the rubbish that blocked up the chapel of St. Mary, a fine recumbent effigy of Bishop William de Breos was discovered. A sepulchral recess also, in which the capitals of the side shafts are beautifully executed, in the style of about the year 1200, has been disclosed to view in the south-east wall of the choir. Tradition assigns this as the tomb of St. Teilo; bones have been discovered in a very dilapidated leathern coffin, a statue found in the grave, a well-executed figure of a bishop, &c. In the cathedral is preserved a small library, consisting chiefly of the works of some of the ancient fathers, founded soon after the Restoration, by Bishop Davies, in place of one which had been destroyed in the recent civil commotions.
Within the parish is a place of worship for Baptists, situated at the village of Ely. There are two day and Sunday National schools, one for boys, and the other for girls; they are supported by subscriptions amounting to about £70 per annum, and about £27 are received in school-pence: the salary of the master is £50, and of the mistress £40. Iltyd Nicholl, Gent., by will dated March 21st, 1716, bequeathed two cottages in Llandaf, and an acre and a half of freehold land within the parish, in trust to the vicars, churchwardens, and overseers, directing the income to be divided between two poor widows: under an act of inclosure passed in 1809 for inclosing the Great and Little heaths, lying within Llandaf and other parishes, these cottages were exchanged for other premises within the city; and the present annual income of the charity is £9. 5. A bequest of £10 to the poor by Elizabeth Turberville, in 1713, has been lost.
The episcopal palace, having been spoiled by Owain Glyndwr, was never repaired. There yet remain some very interesting ruins of the mansion, situated a little to the south-east of the cathedral, and consisting of the principal entrance gateway and the outer walls; these are now the property of the heirs of the late Sir Samuel Romilly, who possessed a considerable estate in the neighbourhood. The palace is generally thought to have been erected by Bishop Urban, but a late writer inclines to refer it to the thirteenth century, since "it presents all the features of the Edwardan period." It also seems to be a matter of doubt whether Glyndwr attacked and spoiled the mansion. Mention is made of a college here, stated to have been founded by St. Teilo, and to have been called after him Bangor Teilo, over which Galfrid, thirty-second bishop of the diocese, presided prior to his consecration; but nothing further is known of its history. Leland also saw some remains of "a Pile or Maner Place decayed at Eglins Newith, in the Paroch of Llandaf." The principal modern mansions in the parish are, Llandaf Court, formerly belonging to the Matthew family; Llandaf House; and Gabalva, once part of the extensive possessions of the Herberts of the Grey Friars at Cardiff. Near Llandaf bridge are found various kinds of marble, beautifully variegated with yellow and light liver colours, or with four colours, resembling the brocatello of lapidaries. Llandaf confers the titles of baron, viscount, and earl, in the peerage of Ireland, on the family of Matthew. |